Saturday, September 21, 2013

VOLCANO!



Our next stop in Costa Rica was Hotel Los Lagos in the Arenal area, close to the volcano.  Had to haggle with Los Lagos for a nice room since they had us assigned to a room right by the parking lot.  I would not have been happy. 
Got room 249 
This was an awesome room with a great view

which was quite a hike to get to, over a hanging bridge and up a steep path.

But it was quiet, away from the crowds, and we were very happy there.  We also got a great workout walking up and down that path!  This is a very large and busy property.  What a difference from Chachagua!  We had a gorgeous  view of the volcano beyond the rolling, grassy lawns and flowers. 

 It was shrouded in fog most of the time, making it all the more mysterious, but when the clouds parted, it was magnificent! 
"Peekaboo!"

 There are replicas of this volcano throughout the property.    
SEE?


Told you!


Yes, there's even a replica in the bar.  What?  You thought I was kidding???

We went down to check out the crocodiles, frogs, butterflies and ant farm that Christian had recommended seeing.  We peered through the wrought iron fence at the crocodiles lazing on their islands 
Come and get me!

and walked into a domed butterfly garden with giant, bright blue Monarchs fluttering around.   


In the Garden of Eden (or is it Inagadaveda???)

The ant farm was especially interesting, with rows and rows of the Leafcutter ants we had seen in the forest marching on branches above our heads, carrying bits of leaves back to their nest.  They are constantly in motion.  

This is quite the ant farm!

The swim up bar quickly became our new home away from home.  We spent every afternoon and evening here.  It was fun, lively, and the warm water from the natural hot springs (you know, there’s this volcano nearby?) was very inviting.

A water slide shoots you into the warm pool if you are so inclined, or you can walk in with dignity and your makeup intact like me.   


Whee! Clearly, Kyle is not worried about his makeup
There is also a larger slide into a cold water pool, which didn’t seem that appealing to me, but all the kids loved it, including Kyle.  It’s long and steep, you zoom through a scary tunnel and plunge into the cold water.  Gasp! To my credit, I tried it.  Once.





Kyle met lots of young people his age here and was trying his best to work through the language barrier with a cutie from France.  I sat on a barstool in the pool, nursing my Margarita and watching all the happy people talking and laughing in the pool.  There’s a little island in the middle where you can climb on if you get tired of the warm water. At night, lights all around the pool area turn different colors.  The bar also has a dry side and this is where we ate dinner every night.   





It was useless to try and resist the Margaritas!




We filled up on nutritious fare like nachos and French fries.  Well, hey, we were on vacation!   
Can you see the horses? They went thataway. The iguana is fake
We were sitting at the bar, when, to my astonishment, a group of horses went galloping up the sidewalk.  I grabbed my new camera, focused and clicked! But I clicked the off button instead of the shutter button. That's why you can't see the horses in the above picture.  Pretty slick, right?  I've always been very coordinated.

Our wonderful room was quite spacious and had a front and back door with porches on both sides.  We had a refrigerator and flat screen TV!  One evening, I went outside to watch the thunder storm.We had just come back from the pool and were feeling lucky that the rain had waited until we were safely indoors.  Yup, everything was going our way.  I settled into one of the comfy chairs on the porch and watched the rain falling softly.  Kyle came out to join me, cleverly closing the  door behind him, and we were locked out of our room. (!!!)  “Gee, Kyle, I sure hope you have a key.” I said.
“What?  No!” 
 It was a long, soggy walk down to the lobby to get new keys.  We walked solemnly, rain soaking through our hoodies,  neither saying a word.
On Day 2 in Los Lagos we went river rafting. We rode with a van full of fellow adventurers and our entertaining guide,  Carlos, stopped along the way for us to try dragon fruit.  It is so strange – a kind of hairy looking red fruit and when you peel it, you find what looks like a clear egg that is edible.  You just have to be careful not to eat the seed hiding inside. 
Weird, right? (internet photo)

Back on the bus, we rode for another 20 minutes while Carlos explained how to paddle, what to do and what not to do.  I started getting a little scared.  What had I gotten us into? What if I couldn't remember the instructions???  When we got there, he led us down a long muddy road, stopping along the way to point out poison ivy and poisonous red frogs with blue legs.  (They aren’t poisonous unless you eat them – Whew!  Good thing we filled up on dragon fruit!!) 

Isn't he cute?  (internet photo)
We got down to the river and the rubber boats and were given life vests, helmets and paddles.  A review and practice session ensued.  You have to sit on the side of the boat with one foot tucked underneath the seat in front of you so you don't fall out and listen closely to your captain's instructions.  We were assigned to a boat with Captain Warner and two other couples - one from the Grand Cayman Islands, and a newlywed couple from New York.  Captain Warner instructed us to hold our paddles together and yell, "Pura Vida!" which is the Costa Rican equivalent of "This is great! We're all gonna die!"

Pura Vida! (internet photo)

Then we were bobbing down the river, following Warner's orders, "Lean in!  Lean out!  Paddle forward!  Paddle backward!"  The scariest  command was, "Get Down!  Get Down!"  which was yelled in an urgent tone that meant to quickly move to the floor of the boat, hold your paddles upright so you don't smack your neighbor in the face, close your eyes and pray.  We were literally paddling for our lives.  

This is what it looked like (internet photo)
We got stuck on a rock at one point and our boat started to flood.  Warner had us lean to the right to empty the boat then yelled urgently, "Back to your positions!" but I couldn’t climb up the steep, slippery sides of the rubber boat.   It was physically impossible.  Kyle was yelling at me, Warner kept shouting, but I couldn't move.  Kyle finally gave me a hard shove and our lives were saved!  Grand Cayman girl almost fell out because she was having trouble too (which means I'm not the only spaz).   

It was  2 ½ hours of pure exhilaration.  There was thunder and lightening in the distance and rain pouring on our heads as we paddled furiously with our metal oars (!!?)  When the river calmed down a little, Kyle looked at me curiously and said, "Uh, Mom, what's wrong with your face? You have black streaks running all over."  The rain combined with the river water splashing into the boat had melted my mascara and it was running in attractive black streams down my face.  Anybody remember Tammy Faye?  Yeah, probably like that only worse.  I wiped at my face in between paddling and asked Kyle if it was better.  He said, oh so very honestly, "Well, at least you don't look horrible any more."  Everyone was laughing and Newlywed New York girl, who happened to be a freelance makeup artist,  said, oh so very diplomatically, "You have the smokey eye look going on!"

Warner did such a great job of barking orders  and making it fun at the same time.  He has been doing this the longest of the other boat captains – 18 years – and his knowledge of the river and equipment made me feel safe even when it was scary.

Yay! We survived the rafting trip!






They prepared fresh fruit for us when it was over















We were given water, beer, towels and a place to change into dry clothes.   
Then they drove us to a nice local restaurant where a delicious lunch was prepard for us – chicken, beef in yummy sauces, homemade tortillas, rice, papaya which was prepared so it resembled squash, a veggie silimar to potato, salad.  Then they did a demonstration  of coffee making – pouring boiling water into a special filter filled with locally grown coffee grounds.
This is how we make coffee in our neighborhood!

But wait, there's more! After coffee, they served us all a slice of sugar cane which we were instructed to bite and suck the juice out of but not eat.  Then they had volunteers put the sugar cane through a press.  Kyle helped along with the New York Newlyweds.  The sugar cane juice was pressed  into a bottle, then they twisted the cane and pressed again.  They doubled the cane and pressed a third time, extracting the rest of the juice.    

They had us all try the sugar juice, then the adults were given the fermented alcohol from the sugar cane – which is basically moonshine, and burned all the way down!    
Cough - now I know why they call it Fire Water!

I highly recommend this company, Wave Expeditions.  Kyle and I both felt this was so worth the money.  We got way more than we expected and it was truly a day to remember and one of the highlights of our trip.

The next morning, I woke at 5:30 – heard something scrabbling outside our door. I crawled on all fours towards the door and saw a shadow moving back and forth.  I flung open the door but nothing was there, so I Went outside and sat on the front porch looking at the fog shrouded landscape and listening to the birds and unusual wild life noises. Monkeys?  Monsters?  When I went back inside, I heard a fluttering noise and thought a bird had flown into our room.  I didn’t see anything though, until I looked at the far wall and saw what I thought might be a bat.  It was actually a huge butterfly and stayed on the wall the entire time we were in the room.   
Just stopped by to say hello (or suck your blood. Your choice.)

Our last activity in Los Lagos was a horseback ride to a waterfall.   This time, the horses were not gaited and looked sad.  I rode Milionario and Kyle rode Snake.  It was about a 45 minute ride, then we left the horses and  hiked down a steep. slippery stone path to the waterfall.  





 There was a steep ravine on our right, nothing to keep us from plummeting to our death if we slipped.  Gasp.  I worried about the little kids with us.  The waterfall was breathtaking and worth the long hike.    After we huffed and puffed our way back up to the horses, we were taken to an idiginous area where native Costa Ricans greeted us with their traditional Kapi Kapi greeting

and gave us a presentation including a drink of sugarcane mixed with a couple other ingredients.  It was sweet, slightly alcoholic.  They described their culture and way of life in their native language while our guide translated.  They had colorful, hand made masks, flasks and jewelry on display and I bought a little canteen sort of thingy which I'm sure will be useful for future horseback rides.

On our last day in Los Lagos,  Kyle showed me a Mirador (lookout point) he had discovered.  We walked past more hot springs which I hadn’t seen before and up a long steep road.  It was foggy, misty, and we couldn’t see the volcano.  At the top of the hill, there was some construction going on
Hey! Why didn't we ride those pretty horses!













 which looked like it might be a future restaurant with a spectacular view.  On the way down, the sun came out a little.  We passed some horseback riders who had ridden to the lake by the volcano.  I was mad at myself that I didn’t know about this possibility.  


 We found more hot springs  
















Ran into a photo shy raccoon
Here's some of the horses I tried to take a picture of the first night, and a dog that made friends with Kyle

Even the cows seemed friendly. Sadly, we didn't know how to say Moo in Spanish.



I don't think Kyle wanted to leave this place
Yup, pretty sure he wasn't ready to go



Goodbye Los Lagos.  Sure was fun!
 Next stop - the cloud forest!




Saturday, September 14, 2013

WELCOME TO THE JUNGLE!!




COSTA RICA, PART 1
My son and I got to spend two fun filled weeks in Costa Rica this summer.  I thought it would give us both a chance to practice our Spanish, have fun, and, of course, form a close bond like all moms and teenage sons have. Hahahahaha. 
Are you laughing too?
We took an overnight flight from LA which is always a barrel of fun.  I paid extra for “Comfort Seats” but, honestly, where was the comfort???  If there was any extra space, it was maybe 1/8”.  Wow, what a difference!  Needless to say, we arrived cranky and sleep deprived.   
Our first stop was the Chachagua Rain Forest, a mere 3 hours from the airport over narrow, bumpy, winding roads. We weren't feeling too swell when we arrived. It was worth it, though.  What a beautiful place!
Serene ponds


Soothing waterfalls
The lobby is open air – just a deck with a roof, no walls, like Hawaii!  Everyone here was very relaxed and friendly.  Our villa had a large deck with a sofa, coffee table, rocking chair, a little counter-top with bar stools, and a hammock.  This place is in an isolated area of the rain forest, which meant I was kicking myself for not bringing provisions (you know, wine and/or vodka, the essential vacation items), since there were no nearby stores.  
What? No happy hour??


We were both feeling exhausted and out of sorts, so we tried to nap for a while.   




It's MY hammock
 We read books, did puzzles, fought over whose turn it was to use the hammock.  The sun came out in the afternoon and we set off on the waterfall trail which runs along a river and is lush and tropical.   
My expert map reader keeps us from getting lost

Admiring a pretty red flower. Keep reading to find out why this could have been dangerous
Can you hear the water rushing down?













I was blissfully unaware they found a Boa Constrictor here the week before





We discovered bits of leaves marching along the forest floor
Can you see the line of tiny leaves? They are being toted by a parade of Leafcutter ants!

and crossed the river on makeshift bridge.   
Show off

Kyle waltzed across easily, but I crawled on all fours, not trusting my balance on the narrow, slippery board and hoping there were no creepy crawlies underneath where my fingers were gripping.   I also hoped nobody was watching me.
Yes, there really are Tarzan vines in the jungle!


This resort has a garden where they grow fruit and vegetables, and they also have goats, pigs and a horse stable.  There's an old cheese factory where they used to make goat cheese.  Bacteria from the pigs is used for fuel.  It's all very clean and Eco friendly here.
El Jardin

I'm a little Feta!

Horse barn, arena and watch tower

We were about to discover that it rains here every single afternoon, and when I say rain, I don’t mean little Southern California sprinkles, NO NO!  I mean heavy duty intense thunder and lightening storms with downpours lasting at least two hours!  It’s the real deal.  Our covered deck gave us the opportunity to sit outside for the thunder/lightening/rain show, which took the place of the TV we didn’t have.   
Better than a TV screen

There’s always something going on in the jungle, though.  When it wasn’t raining, we looked for tropical birds (we saw a Toucan).  The sound of cicadas high up in the trees was ever present and amazingly loud.  (Sometimes I think I can still hear them buzzing.)
The open air restaurant was lovely and the food was fabulous.  The rain and the sounds of the jungle made it seem like we were eating at Disneyland’s Rain Forest CafĂ© (without the wierd gorillas).

Our maid showed her artistic flair!

The next day, we went on a 2 hour horseback ride and our horses were gaited which I was real excited about.  
This is fun!

  





Kyle was real excited too. Can you tell?



















Then we went on a nature hike with Christian, who was so knowledgeable and made me feel like an idiot for the casual way we had traipsed along the same trails the day before.  He pointed things out to us that we hadn’t even noticed.   
Look closely and say hello to my leeetle friend! Yes, you say hello while I run away screaming.

A rather large Golden Orb spider hung suspended in its web between two trees which I probably would have walked right into without Christian.  He pointed out her many features while I tried to control the goose bumps sprouting on my arms.  He said this spider was poisonous but not as much as the one by my arm. (!WHAT?!?!?!)  Yes, there was a small tarantula on the tree RIGHT NEXT TO ME.  It was a grayish color so it blended into the bark.  This is a very poisonous spider.   

Then he pointed to a pretty, innocent white flower at the base of the tree.  
Can't touch this!  
Just a sweet, innocent little flower?  NOT!
 He said in the jungle,some of the most beautiful things are the deadliest.  If I were to pick that flower and sniff it, I could DIE. (!?!) It contains a resin that causes muscle paralysis and eventual anaphylactic shock or heart attack.  Good to know.  In fact, good to know YESTERDAY when we were lollygagging our way through this treacherous place.  He said tourists come to the jungle and think it’s Disneyland and nothing bad will happen, but it’s the JUNGLE, and bad things do happen!  He cautioned us never, ever, ever to walk in the jungle when it is raining because things fall down from the canopy, hit you on your head and you die. "Welcome to the jungle, my friend!"
 Christian is so knowledgeable and passionate about everything in the forest and in his country.  Every single thing in the jungle has a purpose, and Costa Ricans have used what they've learned here to keep their country Eco friendly.  I told him his tour should be required for anyone visiting that area!

This is Christian's dog, Canela.  She is very friendly.  She likes to chase the ducks in the pond. (No ducks were harmed.)


We learned so much from Christian and came away with a greater appreciation for this beautiful forest.
This was the perfect place to unwind after a long flight, a total immersion into all the sights, sounds and excitement that Nature has to offer.
 
Next stop - the volcano area!

Rain Forest Cafe?